Water

Life comes from the water in Antarctica. What inhibits life on land—the cold and windy climate—enriches life in the sea. The Antarctic Ocean is the most nutrient-rich and biologically productive sea on the planet. It also hosts the simplest food chain, everybody eats krill. This crustacean is the base ingredient of every Antarctic animal’s lunch: fish, birds, penguins, seals, and whales.

To follow the wildlife we follow the water. We travel frequently by Zodiac; they’re the best way to get us on land and close to icebergs. In these black rafts I feel most vulnerable, clinging to the ropes as they whiz along the surface of the cold, cold water.

Twice we’ve paddled around in kayaks. This is a rare gift of independence—and silence. In the kayaks we can hear icebergs sizzle in the sun and penguins porpoise out of the water.

Our ship is a magnet for seabirds. Cape Petrels are our constant chaperones. At the edge of the ice, the pure white Snow Petrel swoops in for an appearance. Close to land, the Antarctic Tern darts and dives. Why are they attracted to ships? Maybe it’s the propellers churning up water, maybe it’s the way we push through the wind, or maybe it’s because we’re a sign of life.